24 hours in: Hong Kong

EARLY RISE

First Timers

Kowloon is one of the most densely populated places on the planet and nowhere is more crammed than the Mong Kok district, where skyscrapers sit cheek by jowl with busy street markets and malls. Thank goodness then, for Fu Kee Congee (104-106, Fa Yuen Street), a quiet no-frills haven from the bustling streets that also happens to serve up some of the best congee in Hong Kong. For those not in the know, congee is a porridge-like dish made from rice and served up with anything from strips of gingered pork to griddled prawns. It’s an acquired taste but delicious when done well.

Old Hands

The rest of Kowloon isn’t much quieter, not least the jam-packed Tsim Sha Tsui district, where red and cream taxis compete for space with shoppers and crooked neon signs seemingly on the verge of toppling into the street. All of which makes the peaceful greenery of Kowloon Park infinitely more appealing – not least because it’s also where you’ll find free t’ai chi classes first thing. Along with t’ai chi, the park also has a fitness trail that winds through the foliage with eight pit stops for press ups. After working out, head across the road to the Mira Hotel (118 Nathan Road) which does one of the city’s best healthy breakfasts, complete with plentiful dragon fruit and freshly-cooked omelettes.

MORNING

First Timers

After breakfast, hop into one of the city’s ridiculously cheap taxis and head to Kowloon Waterfront where you can jump on one of the tiny ferries that chug back and forth across Victoria Harbour. Once in Central, avoid the business blocks and head inland to Hollywood Road, a fascinating old street that’s home to an odd mix of shops, temples and street stalls. Here, you’ll find jade jewellery, kitsch Chairman Mao alarm clocks and everything in between as well as tiny tea shops selling delicate jasmine and green brews. Don’t miss the Man Mo Temple (124-126 Hollywood Road) – or forget to leave a lucky offering to the local deities.

Old Hands

Central may have the red and gold Man Mo Temple but it isn’t the only Hong Kong district to combine old and new. Kowloon keeps its traditions alive, not least in the Bird Market (Yuen Po Street) in Mong Kok where curious visitors mingle with locals on the hunt for a new pet. It doesn’t look much at first glance but once inside, the crowded rows of cages containing anything from parrots to sparrows will either horrify or delight. Further on, birds give way to equally colourful, if far less controversial, flowers, while around the corner on Prince Edward Road West, you’ll find rwb330 – a wonderful little shop that sells upcycled red white and blue plastic bags: the fruits of a collaboration between local designer Stanley Wong and a mental health charity.

AFTERNOON

First Timers

While both the Bird Market and Hollywood Road scream China, a trip up to the Peak offers a different view of the past. Built by the British to service the well-heeled European settlements perched at the top, the century-old tramline that takes you up wouldn’t look out of place in London. But while the technology and the sepia photos displayed at the station are pure Victoriana, the stunning views of the city are not. As you go up, the skyscrapers fall away, replaced by flashes of greenery and sea-blue before, at the top, a spectacular 360 degree view of the city comes into view.

Old Hands

Back in Mong Kok, kick off your afternoon with lunch at Tim Ho Wan (Olympian City 2, 18 Hoi Ting Road). Purportedly the world’s cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant, queues are usually appalling but the food – dim sum – is well worth the wait. Afterwards, hop on the tube and head across the harbour to Causeway Bay, where you’ll find local design galore in the boutiques of the Island Beverley Centre, Causeway Place and the Jardine's Crescent Street Market. Once you’ve had enough of the shops, try a sundowner with a view at the Hooray Bar, perched atop the nearby World Trade Centre (280 Gloucester Road).

EVENING

First Timers

Like taking the tram to the top of the Peak, spending an evening cruising around Victoria Harbour won’t get you many points with the off-the-beaten-track brigade but it will prove thoroughly entertaining. If it’s commentary and coffee you’re after, the Star Ferries Harbour Tour is great, but for a party atmosphere and plenty of wine, head to Central Pier 9 and hop on the Aqua Luna group’s red-sailed junk which looks a bit like an Oriental pirate ship and tours the harbour to the sound of thumping club beats.  It’s also a great vantage point from which to enjoy Hong Kong’s ‘Symphony of Lights’ which illuminates 44 of the city’s towers every evening.

Old Hands

East of the World Trade Centre, in the Mid-Levels district, you’ll find one of Hong Kong's best Sichuan restaurant. San Xi Lou (Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road) is famed for its Chongqing spicy chicken and eye-wateringly fiery hot pots. Head north to Hong Kong’s SoHo area (in and around Elgin Street) afterwards for a cooling nightcap or take a taxi back to the humming Knutsford Terrace in Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui.